The Classic Trench Coat. Of all classic pieces of outerwear this is the one which has stood the test of time. Out of practical origins in World War I trenches to which it was made famous on the silver screen by the likes of Humphrey Bogart and Audrey Hepburn the trench coat is a symbol of that which is forever in style. It does well with a tailored suit, it looks great with jeans and a t-shirt, also it is a practical choice for protection from the weather.
It is very basic really. A strip of fabric to tie at the waist. But left to itself that belt becomes a nuisance. It dangles awkwardly when open, it threatens to trip you when you untie it, and should you tie it wrong it can transform your look from “sleek detective” to “just rolled out of bed in a bathrobe.
A well done trench coat belt is the final touch to your outfit. It defines your shape, adds a element of intent to your look, and keeps you secure from the wind. As you go for either casual elegance or military precision that is the key.
This guide takes you through the preparation, which knots to use for closing your coat, and ideas for when you wear it open.
The Pre-Tie Checklist
Before we get into it and start out procedures of testing and pulling, not all pieces of equipment are the same.
- The Fabric Factor: In the past we have seen that a classic stiff cotton gabardine does an excellent job of holding a sharp structured knot. But for silk or lyocell in a flowing drape we recommend a more secure tie off or even a double wrap as these slippery fabrics tend to come untied at the drop of a hat.
- The Length Issue: Trench coat belts are of a large size which we put up to the fact that they have to fit many body types and wear various layers of clothing under the coat. If you find yourself with too much belt material after you tie a basic knot, you will have to try out more complex knots (like the Rosette) which use up the excess, or take it in to a tailor to have the length reduced.
Part 1: The Weatherproof Issue
When it comes to putting on layers as the weather turns you notice which kind of belt or what you do at the waist sets the tone for the whole look.
1. The Bathrobe Knot (Upgraded)
This is the go to for most people but they get it wrong. What you want is symmetry and that it’s flat so it doesn’t appear bulky under the stomach.
- The Vibe: Casual, brief, and easy.
- How to do it: Cross over the right side of the belt with the left. Pull the right side up and under the left at the point they cross to form the first half knot. pull tight. Take the right hand side which is now hanging to the right, fold it to make a loop. With the left side pass it over that loop which you have just created, push it through the hole you just made, and pull both loops to the front.
Pro Tip: You require a square knot not a “granny knot”. Also when you pull it tight the bow should sit across at your waist level and not at a diagonal.
2. The Classic Buckle Buck
The classic approach. If your coat features a buckle and prong it is meant to be done up. This gives the best hold in windy weather and also has a sharp military look.
- The Vibe: Sharp, clean and professional.
- How to do it: Feed the non-buckle end through the buckle like a leather belt you would do. Put the prong in the best fitting eyelet it should be a tight fit but not restrictive.
- The Critical Final Step: Do not allow the excess fabric to drape. Most trench coats include a little fabric “keeper” clip by the buckle. Tuck the tail in there neatly so it lays flat against the waist.
3. Burberry’s Rosette
This is what they call the Holy Grail of tie methods for trench coats. In street style shoots and high fashion editorials this tie is a staple. It has a floral design or is a complex single side bow. It is great for breaking in a longer belt and also is a design statement which really transforms your look.
The Vibe: Forward designed, feminine, and sophisticated.
How to do it: This is a skill which comes with practice. For a simple crossover knot (right over left and under) which tightens the waist secure the knot. Take the longer length of the strap (which is usually the non-buckle end). Wrap that long piece around the secured central knot you just put in place. Do this 2 or even 3 times until you have a short tail left over. Put that tail which is left over through the middle of your wraps to secure it in. Fluff out the wraps to look like a rosette.
Part 2: The Open Style (Casual and Breezy)
People tend to tie the belt loosely at their sides when wearing the coat open which is a look we outgrow. Also you may loose the belt entirely. Here is a way to do with the belt when the coat is open.
1. Tie Back (The Cinch)
This out at the back of your neck the fabric of the coat in — which in turn gives you a tailored look even when the front is open, instead of wearing the coat as though it were a tent.
- The Vibe: Tidy, dressed well, and to the side.
- How to do it: Pull the belt to the back of the coat at both sides. At the center of your back you may tie a perfect double knot. Also for a more put together look pass the non-buckle end of the belt through the buckle at the back and secure the tail with the keeper loop.
2. The Small Tuck
For a casual look.
- The Vibe: Simple and casual.
- How to do it: Take the loose ends of the belt in hand and place them into the large front pockets of the trench coat. This will put them away totally and at the same time creates a very clean vertical look down the front of you.
Conclusion
The trench is a piece that plays a role in a greater outfit picture; it’s not a piece you just throw on, it is a canvas for your style. What you do with your belt is a personal touch that defines your style. Do you go for the classic clip of the structured buckle, the easy look of the simple knot, or the elaborate art of the rosette?
Don’t worry to put on some make up in front of the mirror before you head out. Some minutes of preparation will see to it that your trench coat is always a look of intention and sharpness, timelessness.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)
Q1: What to do if your belt is too long?
A: If your belt is out of length, tuck in the excess into a belt loop, tie it up nicely (for fabric or trench coat belts) also you may put in an extra hole, or take it to a tailor to get it shortened.
Q2: How to keep trench coat belt from falling off?
A: You can wear your trench coat belt to stay put by passing it through the side belt loops, tying it tight, or sewing in small belt carriers which in turn will keep the belt attached.
Q3: How to tie knots behind trench coat?
A: To tie a knot in a trench coat belt, pass the belt over your waist, cross it at the back and tie a simple knot or a flat bow in the middle, keep it tight but not painful.
Q4: Is it okay to just remove the belt entirely?
A: Yes you may remove the belt totally. Your trench will still look great and it creates a more casual open fit.
Q5: How does the belt design on Express Jackets help in achieving a perfect, lasting knot?
A: The belt of Express Jackets is designed with loops and a slim fit which keeps it in place and out of slip out of adjustment, also very easy to tie into a secure long lasting knot.